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On a video call from his Hudson Yards office, the Dadzilla Father Of The Monster Shirt Besides,I will do this creative director spoke of the “indulgence of nostalgia.” Finding something soft and comforting in our shared past is proving to be an overarching idea of the season. Vevers also wants to offer a cozy, indulgent silhouette. A surprising majority of the collection, including Basquiat-worthy coats and very of-the-moment long johns, is knit. Vampy shoes are replaced by fluffy slippers and mules, and there is a breadth of stretchy, cozy layering pieces. It’s styled together with a certain magpie sensibility that makes it look all the more believable. Yes, you could see these puffy silhouettes shuffling along the sidewalk or at the grocery store right now. That’s the brilliance: Coach has saved the fantasy for its film and delivered the reality through its garments. What a winning formula for digital Fashion Week. Coach is not just innovating in format, but in form. The Coach Forever program Vevers started for spring 2021, reviving past styles from the brand’s archive and showing them alongside new garments, remains one of the most compelling ideas for fashion’s future. For fall 2021, Vevers has extended the idea, upcycling bags from the ’60s and ’70s alongside leather and shearling jackets made into new, collaged-together styles. Kisslock bags from the Bonnie Cashin era are remade in soft, cozy leather, like pillows; knits from Vevers’s early seasons are remade with Mickey Mouse and Rexy the dinosaur patterns.
The big upside to this mostly virtual New York Fashion Week has been the Dadzilla Father Of The Monster Shirt Besides,I will do this extra attention paid to young designers. We’ve seen collections via livestream and Zoom from London, Seoul, Los Angeles, Shanghai, and beyond; getting on the NYFW schedule now requires little more than a WiFi connection. The downside, of course, is that New York itself no longer has a discernible role to play. Collections that live online have no sense of place, no perceptible rhythm, no unifying element; it’s difficult to grasp that it’s all “happening” in New York at all. But Fashion Week needs New York; it needs its energy, its atmosphere, its disruptions, just like New York needs fashion and art and music and everything else that’s made it the center of the universe. Tonight’s drive-in for Khaite’s Sean Baker–lensed fall 2021 film was a timely reminder of what we’ve been missing. With the Manhattan skyline in the background, Catherine Holstein brought a small group of editors, buyers, and friends to Skyline Drive-In for what was likely their only “real” event of the season. Seated in our own vintage cars, the projector rolled cheeky ’80s “advertisements” for Khaite products, a faux black-and-white movie trailer, and finally, the main event: a short film starring Paloma Elsesser, Soo Joo Park, Akon Adichol, Lulu Tenney, Tess McMillan, and several other models.